Centuries ago, a group of fishermen mounted their horses early in the autumn and began their trek deep into the mountains of Norway. Lakes abounding, the fishermen spent their days in much success. Preservation of the bounty would have included much salt, but to their dismay they had not brought enough on this journey. They used all they had with nothing left to spare. They began their long journey back down the mountain in the hope that the fish would still be preserved. Days turned into weeks and the fish began to ferment. Upon returning home, and in anticipation that the fish had not gone to waste, the fisherman discovered something quite unusual. The fish had gone through a process in which had preserved it in a different way. They had stumbled upon something so delightful that it took hold and became a traditional delicacy across the land. 

This is the story I am told when asked how rakfisk came to be. A legend? Most certainly. But what we do know is that the process of fermentation has been known and popular across the world for thousands of years. Whether tales of accidental fermentation are true or not, is it certain that once the method of fermenting fish arrived in Norway, it became a significant part of the diet and an old tradition which is still upheld today. In fact, rakfisk is considered one of the most culturally important and iconic Norwegian recipes. And while many will never have the opportunity to make it themselves, this is certainly a dish you should try at least once. 

It starts with the fish, usually trout but it is possible to use other types of fresh-water fish. The fermentation process features the lactobacillus bacteria, which preserves the fish by creating lactic acid and lowering the pH level. A low pH level prevents the fish from spoiling enabling the mass of proteins, fat and nutrients to be stored a long time. While the fish are being stored, the enzymes (unaffected by the bacterial process) break down the proteins to amino acids and the fat to fatty acids. This enables the fish to taste savory. The longer the fish ferments, the more savory the taste will be. The intense smell, which receives a variety of reactions, comes from the hydrogen sulphide and acetic, propionic and butyric acids. (excerpt from The Nordic Cook Book)

The process of making rakfisk begins the moment the fish is caught. Within about an hour, the freshly caught fish must be gutted, have the bones removed, and cleaned with very little of the blood remaining. Those who desire a stronger aroma and taste will leave the gills on and leave the blood that accumulates next to the spine. Hygiene is of the utmost importance and there can be no soil contamination to ensure there is no unwanted bacteria. Once cleaned, the fish are then rubbed with course sea salt and a small handful of salt is placed in the belly of the fish. Each fish is then placed on its back and layered snuggly in a large container. A wooden weight is placed on top of the fish and the lid is then put on. A brine should accumulate and cover the fish after a couple of days.

The amount of salt used in proportion to the fish must be no less than 6% and no more than 9/10%. The most important elements in the rakfisk process are the salt and the temperature. The ideal temperature is max 8ºC /46ºF. You can start the process at 8ºC/46ºC, for example, and lower the temperature later in the fermentation process – much like you would with wine. The general recipe is 6% salt at 6ºC for 6 weeks.

Good Norwegian rakfisk should have a mild and pleasant odor and it should not be too salty. It should be spreadable, yet slightly firm and have a vibrant color. It can be hard to put into words exactly what it tastes like as I am not sure there is anything comparable. I certainly can attest as to why it is such a delicacy and something worth celebrating. Not only is it incredibly delicious but there is also a provocativeness about it, which perhaps comes from being able to overcome death and decay, if you will, by manipulating nature and creating something remarkable.

Many people will not have the opportunity to make rakfisk from scratch as the process must be carefully and expertly done. If  you are able to get your hands on some then you are most certainly in for a special treat – a proper Norwegian delicacy. To become accustomed to the taste of rakfisk, it is suggested to start by eating the rakfisk with a little sour cream and sliced onions. Sour cream cuts through the saltiness and the onions take some of the flavor away from the rakfisk. This is optional, of course, and many purists would suggest trying rakfisk on its own first.

Rakfisk is often served with flat bread, butter, lefser, lomper, small boiled potatoes, slices of onion, red beets, sour cream and even a little sugar on top. Beer and aquavit always make their way to the table and you can be assured that every rakfisk dinner is one full of merriment.

In celebration of Norwegian rakfisk, I’m sharing three recipes highlighting this fermented fish – one traditional and two of my own variations – during the course of this month. November is the time when rakfisk is ready and celebrated as a lead up to the holidays. Here’s the first recipe:

Rakfisk Cooked in Beer (rakfisk kokt i øl)

Rakfisk with Smashed Potatoes

Rakfisk Hot Dip

The post Norwegian Rakfisk (fermented fish) appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

This post is made in partnership with TINE.

If there’s one quintessential “cheese” that Norway is known for it’s brown cheese – with its sweet, yet salty and nutty, with a hint of caramel, flavors. Brown cheese or ‘Brunost’ is a by-product of cheesemaking. The leftover whey is cooked down until it caramelizes and turns a lovely deep brown color. When enough moisture has evaporated, the caramelized mass is placed in a form and left to solidify. Traditionally, the forms were made of wood and could have an intricate pattern embellished inside of it to imprint onto the cheese, providing an elegant status of Norway’s farming culture.

The story of Brunost and its popularity traces back to Anne Hov in the summer of 1863. While variations of “whey cheese” were already being produced as far back as anyone can guess and first written about in the 14^th century, it was Anne’s recipe that struck a chord and turned it into a commercial success that would make it one of Norway’s most beloved food products. Her addition of cream into the whey created a rich and creamy Brunost that eventually became Norway’s national cheese and a symbol of national pride.

There are various kinds of brown cheese made today. Typically, they are divided into those made of cow’s milk, those made with the addition of goat’s milk, and those made of only goat’s milk. Each type giving unique flavor profiles and colorization, and collectively they are commonly referred to as Brunost.

What makes brown cheese so special is that it irrevocably represents the traditional Norwegian farm life; everything from the romantic notions of the summer seter to the hard labor and struggles faced, as well as the successes and innovation that has steered the dairy to what it is today. It provides a connection to the natural landscape of Norway and highlights the quality of the dairy products found here. In some varieties, the tanginess of the goat’s milk is so prominent that it feels as though you are tasting the farm itself. So, for those who appreciate knowing where their food is sourced, this is an absolute sign of farm to table. Utilizing whey, a by-product of cheesemaking, means it’s also a sustainable approach to food waste. At the end of the day, though, people love brown cheese because it happens to be incredibly delicious.

It’s difficult to pinpoint my very first taste of Brunost – it was somewhere mixed in with all the other exciting flavors I was being introduced to as a first-time visitor to this incredible country. While the sights, smells, and excitement of experiencing Norway for the first time may have clouded that exact moment, it only took one bite for me to completely understand and appreciate this culinary gem that belongs to Norway.

I spent three months during my first summer here eating my way through blocks of Brunost. It was the most simple and exquisite flavor to top on my slice of hearty bread, where other toppings such as caviar in tube form couldn’t quite grab my attention in the same way. I remember my mother-in-law making finnbiff, a stew made of thinly sliced reindeer, and she explained that the rich sauce encompassing the dish always had a few slices of Brunost added in as per custom and to ensure the right amount of creaminess.

Brown cheese has been a part of life ever since that summer. It’s always in the fridge and adorns slices of bread and baked goods at will. I’ve had the pleasure of visiting local producers of Brunost and have begun to see the innovations of taking it from a topping to incorporating it more so into desserts, entrees, and the like. It was from these interactions that I began looking at Brunost as an ingredient I could incorporate in my everyday cooking whilst still celebrating its traditional place on top of my baked goods and waffles.

Brunost is made all over the Norway, and its quality has seen incredible international success over the years. Luckily, it’s not just contained to Norway as it’s also available in certain areas across the globe by TINE. Meaning, brown cheese can become a part of your everyday too.

TINE is owned by a cooperative of Norwegian farmers that serves Norway as the main producer, distributor, and exporter of commercial dairy products, including Brunost variations. A few years back, I had the pleasure of visiting some of the farmers and cheese producers working for TINE while filming the TV series, Ostereisen “The Cheese Journey”. I was amazed at just how dedicated the farmers across Norway are in ensuring the best quality of life for the animals, which in turn results in the best quality milk. The cheese producers were also some of the most innovative people I have met, with a passion for crafting cheeses that highlight the quality and pride of Norway.

The collective of TINE, in its mission to support farmers and communities as well as make dairy products available across the country and internationally, is incredibly paramount to sustaining the dairy traditions in Norway.

TINE Brunost can be found internationally as Ski Queen, which is why I’m thrilled that those of you outside of Norway can access this very Norwegian cheese and incorporate it into your everyday cooking.

To find your nearest retailer in the US, you can search this locator map.

For Canada, you can use this locator map.

To find your nearest retailer in the UK and Australia, you can search this locator map.

Let’s continue carrying on the brown cheese love

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Numedal is a valley, nestled in the belly of Norway, on route between Oslo and Bergen, with an enormous variety of excellent ingredients and products. This is a valley where culture, history, tradition and food collide. A gem; hidden among the towering mountains, lush forests, and winding rivers. Summertime brings a handful of activities which highlight the area’s natural environment, creativity and people. One of these events brings together a variety of food producers and artisans from the valley to entice locals and visitors alike. Now on it’s fourth year, the Numedal Matfestival is an annual two-day event featuring a local food market, cafe and pub, concerts, food courses, competitions and a nightly creative restaurant headed by a group of young chefs.

Here is the first part of the festival – the day’s activities – which I’d like to share with you. It’s the heart of the festival, where local food and local producers are showcased.

Taking place in Rollag, the atmosphere is a triumphant one when you see the splendor of the mountains, the flowing river and the green valley. It’s a small town, of course, but with a large and cheery personality. The old train line from Kongsberg to Rødberg remains and the imagination only has to fill in what once would have been the clanking of steel against the tracks. The old train station, converted into a cafe and a brewery, overlooks the market and restaurant, acting as a pivotal landmark.

Rain could not put a damper on the day’s activities. Fun games for all included milking a makeshift cow and a potato peeling competition. Visitors could sign up for food courses including beer brewing, sausage making, preparing and cooking fish and making kling. Local producers, selling everything from sausage to lefse to jams and salts and fur hides, happily greeted visitors and passed out samples of their wares, making it impossible for visitors not to indulge in aged goat cheeses, wienerbrød and other baked delights as they made their way around the tents.

Norway has some of the best ingredients on offer and local producers and farmers are ensuring that quality and tradition are at the forefront of Norwegian cuisine. They keep to generational recipes and techniques, such as lefse and kling, lomper, and brunøst, to name a few. While flavors of spruce tips, wild berries, nettle, wild garlic, and edible flowers make their way into the sausages, teas, juices and jams. The method of smoking plays a vital part as well, in products such as flaked salt and fish. The range is varied and exciting. A taste of the past and the present, all in one.

Innovation is an important concept for the area of Numedal, and food is no exception. Unveiled at the festival are the new, local food boxes which can be ordered to personal taste and lifestyle. Competitions for the best amateur beer brewer in two categories received a handful of local entries as well as the competitions for best kling/lefse and sausage in Numedal. Up and coming artisans are sprouting up all over the valley, raising the level of quality and range. With greater interest in food and local ingredients, farmers, producers and hobbyists are able to do what they do best and enhance their products.

Local food festivals are a unique way to connect with the community and natural surroundings. Supporting local farmers and producers means preserving tradition and quality. If you find yourself in the area of Numedal, be sure to stop by one of the local markets or attend the annual food festival. You can always bring a part of the Numedal Matfestival into your kitchen and here are a couple of traditional recipes from local producers which I have already featured here on North Wild Kitchen:

Mollas Lefse 

Snipp from Rollag

Kling from Uvdal

Rømmebrød

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The first flutter of snowflakes fell this morning, transforming a somewhat dulled out mountain scape into a pristine picture of untouched white. Winter has officially arrived. Yesterday was a last minute dash to sort any unfinished farm and house business. Outdoor furniture packed away. Greenhouse cleaned out. Snow tires put on. Wood pile stocked. The freezer is filled to the brim with elk, trout, lamb, and berries. We’re set for the season. And I’m quite proud. Because we gathered and plucked and butchered.

Norway is absolutely picturesque in winter. Little dots of red, blue, yellow, and orange pop out from under a blanket of white. Everything is perfectly dusted. It looks like a postcard. I keep pinching myself. Winter always seems to make such a dramatic entrance here in the North. And with that, so does the kitchen table. Food to warm the soul, satisfy the deepest hunger and delight the senses. Like the glittering décor popping up everywhere, winter food puts on all the glam and has you begging for more.

Pull open the freezer. Grab the canned goods. Dive into the larder. It’s indulgence time.

The cold naturally brings a warmer fare to the table. For Norwegians, this means venison, lamb, fish, root vegetables, piping hot soups, porridges and an abundance of baked goods. As the days are colder and darker, much of the time spent in the kitchen is used creatively in preparing the seasonal produce available (which is far more limited than the other seasons) and to use up what has been stored from the summer and autumn. Below is a list of prominent produce used across the country during the winter season, although not limited to:

• Berries: cloudberry (multebær), lingonberry (tyttebær)
• Vegetables: turnip, rutabaga, carrot, potato, celery root, cabbage, onion, leek
• Herbs: chives, dill, parsley
• Spices: cardamom, pepper, ginger, cinnamon
• Fish: cod, salmon, trout
• Seafood: scallops, shrimp, oysters, crayfish,
• Meat & Game: elk, reindeer, lamb, beef, sheep, pig, hare, grouse

Winter’s challenge makes mealtimes even more special. If you desire to cook seasonally and locally, winter gives you one basket. And you’re lifeline is the freezer and larder. And it is those limits which can rear greater innovation in the kitchen. And at the end of the day, sometimes all you really need is a warm fire, good people and a shared meal.

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