This post is made in partnership with Kvarøy Arctic Salmon

We handed over our luggage and stepped onto the boat with great relief from the chilly summer breeze and splattering of rain that had filled the afternoon. We could just make out the outline of the island as we sped closer and closer, waves roaring against the sides of the boat, trickles of waters dancing off the windows. A week’s worth of traveling northward and here we were, gazing out into the dark blue and thick waters surrounding the island of Indre Kvarøy.

Our journey to Indre Kvarøy started just before Midsummer’s arrival marked the transition of spring into summer. The valley was green and lush with wildflowers starting to bloom as we departed from our home in Numedal, in the heart of the mountains. It was a family affair with my young son, husband, and our boxer dog taking to the road with a small camper in tow.

The plan was to reach the home of Kvarøy Arctic salmon in one week, stopping along the way to share our experiences of the unique landscape and flavors making up this part of Norway. Once we reached the island, we would meet the team and the community, and spend a few days learning about what makes their salmon and approach to farming so unique, and what life on this quaint island at the base of the Arctic Sea is really all about. And while I can certainly attest to their delicious salmon, I was curious to learn more about the family and culture behind it all.

Our travels took us about 1380 km (858 miles) across valleys, mountains, coastline and sea. Along the way, we were met with adventure, diverse and awe-inspiring landscapes, musings, and new friendships. The first part our journey saw us through the Norwegian seter “mountain summer farm” life, where animals thrive in clean, natural and free surroundings. Here, you can taste the wild berries in sweet jams and delectable homemade cured meats. Each bite of cheese seems to draw you into the very grasses the animals graze on. This idyllic way of caring for animals as part of our food system is a common thread found throughout the country, where there is a deep respect for our natural environment and the sustenance it provides.

The second part of our journey took us further north to the Trondheim area, where we experienced a thriving city excelling in its culinary offerings. Here, history and culture jive colorfully alongside restaurants and daily life while a few minutes’ drive takes you out of the city and next to the water’s edge. With Midsummer upon us and the sun never quite setting this far north, we jumped on the opportunity to grill every evening, using the ingredients we had gathered along the way and some Kvarøy Arctic salmon hot dogs and filets. This simple act of cooking and eating outdoors truly solidifies that wonderful connection of farm/sea to plate as you gaze out into the landscape where the ingredients have come from.

The final lap of our journey took us to the coastline, where dramatic geographical formations meet swoon worthy beaches and turquoise waters. It seems that everywhere our feet landed, an enormous connection of familiarity between ourselves and nature was apparent. It was also visibly clear that the tranquility of the surroundings provides an ideal climate and home for species to thrive in. This only added to our expectations of what we would find when we arrived at Indre Kvarøy, each stop confirming just how important the work Kvarøy Arctic is doing in the larger picture for providing a sustainable food source that values the environment, the local culture, the community, and innovation for the future.

After a week of incredible travels, we finally made it to our destination of Indre Kvarøy, the small island just off the mainland with around 80 inhabitants. It was a grey morning, and the wind-strewn raindrops were beating against the glass as the waves splashed upwards against the powerful boat that took us from the mainland to the island. It was a typical coastal summer day, where the weather keeps you guessing as you add and remove layers of clothing as the hours pass by.

From the moment we were picked up by the family, we felt welcome and cared for. Our conversations varied from hilarious anecdotes to the seriousness of the responsibility they carry to produce the best quality salmon in the most ethical and sustainable way. If anything, they certainly never hold back. Honesty is a virtue they wear on their sleeves and one they carry with an air of humility as they talk about their extensive goals while not being afraid to shy away from honest truths about the areas they are working hard to improve on. Although the work they are doing is momentous, I was happy to see the fun they kept in the office, with a desirable work-life balance.

It’s this balance that runs through the veins of the entire community, from the children to the adults, where working hard and playing hard seem to intertwine. Even the seclusion of the island enables the kids more responsibility and freedom to play and explore, giving the parents comfort in knowing that someone on the island is always looking out for them. And while this seclusion could be quite isolating, they make the most out their time and relationships with hobbies, gatherings, and new developments. It’s a community that has always been innovating and growing, and where local entrepreneurs have incredible visions to contribute significantly towards a sustainable future that continues to create jobs for the island.

This sense of community and togetherness was always at the center of our time there, and food was the element that enhanced it in the most beautiful way. The first night, we had dinner at the only restaurant on the island with all the siblings, their spouses, and their children. Needless to say, we overtook the second level of the restaurant with two large tables beaming of noise, excitement, laughter, and the most delicious food highlighting the island.  After dinner, I was invited to come along to the knitting club, where alongside knitting there was a heavy discussion and interest into cooking with wild edibles as the group nibbled on homemade cake.

The next day, we put all this food discussion into action as we headed out to sea for a fun fishing trip with some of the team and the kids (who, by the way, despite their youth were already quite avid fisherman at heart). The wonderful thing about fishing, or any type of gathering of food, is that it teaches the value of obtaining a meal by one’s own hands and becomes an opportunity for even the smallest ones to gain important life skills. Skills, which these kids certainly had since it wasn’t even five minutes in before one of them caught the first catch, followed by even more from the other children. Eventually, the adults caught up and we returned to the island with a selection of pollock, haddock and cod. A trip to the local shop meant hard-earned ice creams and smiles all around.

As the day drew on, we all met up again for one last dinner together at one of the homes of the family. As the clouds parted and made way for a few rays of sunshine, we feasted on salmon, halibut, tasty sides and Ida’s famous rhubarb cake before sitting by the warmth of the fire with coffee as the evening hours rolled on. We proceeded to talk about life on island and it became evident that these types of gatherings are a common occurrence, with neighbors and cousins stopping by here and there to have a drink or give a quick greeting.

The closeness of the family and community truly stood out, and it really brought it all back to an earlier conversation we had where we discussed why they wanted to feed back into the community and the wider world. It came down to the quote: “leave this world better than when you found it.” And that is one of the driving principles that is clearly reflected here, where just like the waves surrounding the island, its effects ripple out into the surrounding areas and out into the wider world.

Before our departure, we took one last tour outdoors and learned of some of the remarkable tales and history that bear their markings on this island and the surrounding areas. On our way to the mainland, we circled the nearby Vikingen island, where the Arctic Circle passes through. As I looked out at the landmark representing the Arctic Circle, I reflected back on the entire journey that had brought us to this point. The passion and love for nature stands out wherever one’s feet might land in Norway, and it is presented in the lifestyle and food culture of the local communities, as evident at Indre Kvarøy. Throughout our time, we were able to see firsthand how the Norwegian concepts of friluftsliv “outdoor living”, dugnad “community”, and velvære “well-being” play out into everyday life, both urban and rural.

Although our journey had reached its end at Kvarøy, the family, the connection to the natural landscape, the honesty and integrity, as well as the close-knit community, and entrepreneurial spirit gave us an authentic and holistic overview of what Kvarøy Arctic stands for and how these ideals revert back into their delicious salmon. Seeing firsthand the pristine and clean natural environment provided a great sense of confidence in knowing that the salmon is flourishing.  

So, while you might not be able to be here in person, you can still bring a taste of Norway to your table with Kvarøy Arctic salmon – representing the beautiful, tranquil and clean nature of Norway.

Also, I’m happy to say that their salmon is now available via Amazon! Check it out here.

The post Journey to Indre Kvarøy appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

Made in partnership with Kvarøy Arctic

The coastline’s expansive stretch along Norway carries with it a raw beauty, where islands jut out from the waters and steep mountains tower above. From the shores, the distance appears to fade into a forever that can draw one into a tranquil trance. Storms break the skies open and the waves crash with a fury, while clear and sunny days usher in a calming silence and peace. Together, these powerful forces complement the life that take root there.

Though, what is so visible to the eye from the shore is only part of the story. Beneath the cold, pristine waters lapping back and forth, a world of vibrant marine life can be found. A world of sustenance and importance. A world each one of us can experience and taste in our very own homes, however far from the Norwegian shores we may be. And this is in part thanks to the those who hold the waters in such high esteem – protecting, gathering and sharing to ensure a sustainable food system now and for the generations to come.

Settled along the craggy Northern coast of Helgeland, stretching from Trøndelag in the south to Salten in the north, is the island of Indre Kvarøy. Here, right at the Arctic Circle, around 80 inhabitants call this island home.

The name, Kvarøy, comes from the old Norse words brem or kant, meaning brim or edge. The earliest known inhabitants date back to the 1600s with two farms in operation. It was in the 1860s that the island became a port and from 1893 the famous cruise ship, Hurtigruten, would make a regular stop there. This influx of visitors enabled the island to develop and build a hotel with a bakery, soda factory, café and marketplace. Today, the island is very much thriving, but in a different way.

One of the families living there now run and operate Kvarøy Arctic, a third-generation family business of fish farming and one of the oldest family-owned businesses in Norway today. It was Alf Olsen, a fish farming pioneer in northern Norway, who started the company with his son, Geir in 1976. Today, the business is run by Geir’s sons, Gjermund and Håvard, and his son-in-law, Alf-Gøran, who took over in 2008. They continue developing the business as it was first envisioned: to offer salmon of very high quality without compromising the environment or the welfare of the fish.

The family operations extend to the community, of course, where friends and neighbors make up part of their team. This close-knit community brings a greater responsibility to Kvarøy Arctic, supporting the larger vision of evolving open water salmon farming into a sustainable practice that supports the environment, the welfare of the salmon, and providing a healthy source of protein for a growing world. The support of the greater whole ensures a more sustainable future and economic resource for the generations to come.

The Norwegian concept of dugnad (volunteering and supporting the community) is deeply rooted and practiced here and within the larger Kvarøy Arctic team based outside of Norway. This is due to the way they view their role among the community and the philosophy by which the company operates. In fact, the company does not own the sea where they have their operations, but rent it with the responsibility to leave the area in the same condition as when they started. It’s this mindset of maintaining the environment we occupy, so the community and future generations can continue to use and enjoy it later on that is so important to the premise of dugnad.

What makes Kvarøy Arctic stand out among the rest is the family’s philosophy of pride – from the quality of the salmon and commitment to caring for the environment to transparency and working to innovate. They recognize the duty of care and responsibility they have for the waters to ensure they don’t contribute to its vulnerabilities, such as pollution. Their work ethic and love for the waters has resulted in Kvarøy Arctic redefining the industry and being the leader in aquaculture sustainability.

Continuing to grow and expand has meant more opportunities for the island and its inhabitants. Many traditional rural areas in Norway find it difficult to maintain their population as more people head into the cities for job opportunities. Small communities slowly fade leaving a story and heritage behind. This why companies like Kvarøy Arctic are so vital to maintaining a vibrant rural Norway, ensuring that the history and culture of these places are maintained.  

The waters around the island are a salmon paradise. The deep fjords circulate with currents as a result from the convergence of the cold Arctic waters and the mild Gulf Stream, providing an incredible environment where the salmon can thrive in a healthy and safe way. The company has a pen ratio of 2% salmon to 98% water, meaning the fish have plenty of room to swim and grow.

They also use blockchain technology to create an unchangeable digital record of the salmon’s journey from the company’s aquaculture farm all the way to market, so you can be sure there is 100% transparency and trust in their supply chain. The technology tracks such a level of detail that it also reduces food waste, enabling Kvarøy Arctic to feed more people in the world. And with our current food system, we will need safety nets set up like this to ensure our planet is well fed in the future.

Kvarøy Arctic is certified by the ASC (Aquaculture Stewardship Council) and was the first farmed salmon company to receive certification for the American Heart Association’s Heart-Check Program. They were also the first farmed salmon to be certified with Whole Foods in 2008. And the certifications and acclamations continue to come as they strive to offer salmon of the best quality without compromising the environment or the welfare of the fish.

The taste of the salmon is incredible. It’s tender and semi-firm with a succulent and buttery, marine flavor and flaky texture. The beautiful orange hue of its flesh is due to its natural diet. In fact, Kvarøy Arctic salmon has double the omega-3 content of other farmed salmon because of the feed that they have helped to pioneer, which uses fermented microalgae as a sustainable source of omega-3s. Just one serving (3.5 ounces/ 100 grams) of their salmon provides over 2,000mg of omega-3s, well over the recommended goal for a weekly intake. So, not only is every meal going to be delicious, it’s also going to be nutritious and beneficial to our health and well-being.

I’m so excited to be partnering with Kvarøy Arctic; sharing recipes and tips that will connect you to Norway. Their salmon is delectable, and they prioritize the stewardship of the waters – leaving them in the same condition (or better) as they were when they first started farming. Their philosophy and outlook on the future of our food system is imperative and commendable. Having the protection and sustainability of our landscape at the forefront of our minds ensures a better future ahead. It also means that we can eat with assurance and enjoy every luscious bite of salmon that has come straight from the cold and crisp waters of Norway.

For more information about Kvarøy Arctic, visit: https://www.kvaroyarctic.com/

To find Kvarøy Arctic salmon near you, check here: https://www.kvaroyarctic.com/find

The post Kvarøy Arctic Salmon from Norway appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

Some memories
never leave your bones
like salt in the sea;
they become part of you
and you carry them. –author unknown

On an island off the western coast of Norway, there is a woman. A woman who loves salt, who loves the sea, and who loves to eat well. A self-taught sea salt producer who is helping shape the culinary innovations in Norway with her family and team at North Sea Salt Works.

An American raised in Portland, Oregon, Michal was already accustomed to savoring the moments of life and appreciating what the land provided. If you ask her, she will tell you that her life’s path was carved from these building blocks and it brought her to where she is today: working on the small island of Gossen, Norway and drawing sustenance from the sea that surrounds it.     

I read the story about North Sea Salt Works not long after I moved to Norway, and it resonated with me that Michal had found her place in Norway off the beaten track and was doing what she loved. We met a few years later at the annual food festival in Bergen and I made it a point to head over to her booth to introduce myself. With a crowd of eager customers around her, she gracefully stepped aside to share a brief conversation with me. Turns out she knew of me as well and there, under a white booth in Bergen, our friendship began. Two Americans who had found themselves in Norway, both passionate about local ingredients and eating well.

I made my plan to visit her in the summer, as part of a little coastal journey to go crab fishing in Ona and taste local sild not far from her factory. From Molde, we took the ferry across to Aukra and drove a little way to a building nestled by the shoreline. I could smell the sea as I got out of the car; the breeze tossing my hair and the grey clouds settling above the jutting rocks. Small pockets of wildflowers were in blossom and with just a glance out beyond the water’s edge, I immediately understand where her inspiration was being drawn from.

She opened the door and welcomed us in with a warm embrace, the kind you expect from an old friend. She gave us a tour of the production, explaining the science behind it all. Outside and by the water’s edge, she pointed out to the source of where they harvest: cold, pure seawater from Saltsteinsleia in the Norwegian Sea. She explained that friends of hers, who are divers, found this particular spot for her. Beneath is a bed of shellfish that helps filter the water and increase the mineral content. Ideal when it comes to extracting quality salt.

We chatted endlessly and decided it was best to make our way to the office to sit down and drink a cup of coffee. Michal showed me some of the exciting projects and collaborations she and her team are working on and we tasted a few selections. The same thoughts kept popping in my mind: her salt is excellent; her enthusiasm is contagious; and her creativity is bountiful. I just wish I could have stayed much longer than planned to soak it all in.

Michal’s journey to sea salt is one that was in the making for a long time. She has always loved salt, so the love affair was there. It was about the time she helped her son on a Lewis and Clark project about the salt works they created in Astoria, Oregon for school that her path to salt making began taking shape. One day, on the playground with her kids, she had a conversation with her friend, Mark Bitterman. I suspect after dabbling in various subjects, they stumbled upon his love for salt as well and that he, in fact, was in the middle of writing his book on salt called Salted. What was initially a friendly encounter turned serendipitous as Mark would later become an important advisor for her salt production.

She moved to Norway with her husband and boys in 2011, to the island of Gossen in Aukra where his parents live. After settling in and embracing the island life, she found herself asking if anyone was producing local salt from the surrounding sea and if not, why? No one was and that answer continued to pull at her. Here was an incredible natural resource and if no one else was making sea salt then surely someone should be.

This thought and her curiosity of creating salt finally got the best of her. She gathered some sea water and used an old crab cooker in the boathouse to boil down the water. Her first experiment was something she looks back on fondly today. She kept the small sample in a glass spice jar, and has it prominently placed in the office to remind her of how far she has come. While it wasn’t the most successful of experiments, it was the start of the beginning.

With the goal of reinvigorating and reinterpreting Norway’s centuries old production of one of the worlds’ most essential minerals, while building on traditions dating back to the Viking era, her tests continued in Oslo. She sent several samples back to Mark, who encouraged her that she was onto something special.

She certainly was and began commercially making salt in 2014, in the facility where she is currently at. Today, North Sea Salt Works is one of the best producers of sea salt in Norway using 100% renewable energy and sustainable manufacturing processes.

She takes the salt in her hands and crunches it in her fingers, moving it back and forth, dropping it, picking it up again. It’s therapeutic and hypnotizing all at once as it draws you in a state of relaxation.

There’s just something calming about the sound and lightness. It looks like snow; pure white with beautiful, graceful flakes that inevitably are the inspiration behind the name Havsnø or “sea snow”. It’s the mineral content of the cold and clean seawater that makes Havsnø’s crystalling white flakes flat and soft with a light crunchy feeling. The salt has a concentrated salty but clean taste without bitterness arising from the naturally occurring trace minerals. They produce four varieties of salt from the same batch.

• Havnsø – Culinary salt used as a finishing salt to accentuate and enhance the flavours of the food.
• Kråkeboller – Fine salt that has the same consistency and application as kosher salt.
• Tønne – The practical workhouse of the varieties; great for salting water and prepping food for grilling.
• Fjære – havsnø mixed with organically grown sugar kelp from TANGO seaweed; a great seasoning salt.

North Sea Salt Works has won numerous awards, can be found throughout Norway, and is on the table at some of Norway’s highest end restaurants. It doesn’t stop there though. They are certified 100% hydro with the water coming from a single waterfall and their goal is to have zero waste by the end of 2021.

Entrepreneurship and employment for young adults from the local area is high on Michal’s agenda. She partners with the local school and employs these young adults to teach them valuable skills and encourage them in their dreams, passions, and drives. They learn everything from marketing, packaging, and building lightbulbs to innovating what it means to create quality and using the byproducts of salt production. She is passionate about building the local community and creating jobs to maintain life on the island. You can clearly see the positive impact she is already having and there is no doubt that more is to come.

Michal is a gentle powerhouse who exudes warmth and passion. There’s no denying that she means business and is determined to impact her community and Norway in the way we approach how we eat and what we eat, as well as building up the next generation of innovators. It’s people like Michal and her team who will utilize and impact this beautiful landscape for the greater good.

Sometimes you just need a little salt to make everything better.  

The post Salt from the Sea: A North Sea Salt Works Story appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

This post is sponsored by Seafood From Norway.

I joined a press tour with the Norwegian Seafood Council to learn more about seafood and sustainability. While this article is sponsored by them, everything is completely of my own opinion and reflects my thoughts about the country I love so dearly. I’m grateful to the Norwegian Seafood Council for the opportunity to meet local producers, chefs, suppliers, researchers, and teams who all play a vital role in maintaining, protecting, and celebrating the  surrounding nature.

The crisp and cold waters are teeming with life. Life that is rich and vibrant, beautiful and interesting, and an important resource for Norway. A resource that is acknowledged with respect, because the gift of the sea is sustenance. It is an important food source and one that must be protected and appreciated; a balance of a delicate ecosystem that’s beautiful and wonderous.

I traveled to the north of Norway to Alta and Tromsø with a group of chefs, dieticians and foodies, to explore the ways that Norwegians are utilizing and protecting the seas that play and have played one of the most important roles in the country. The waters are vital to Norway. They shape the land, they provide food, they act as route for travel, they are an economic source and provide jobs. For so many, they depend upon the waters and, because of this, the waters in turn depend upon them for preservation.

This interrelation has resulted in Norway having a distinct relationship with and a deep respect for its waters and what lies beneath. Whether traditional or commercial fishing, you’ll find this evident throughout the landscape. I found it somewhat serendipitous that as we pulled to the side of the road to get out and take in the sights, beneath us a lone fisherman had cast his line into the fjord waters.  

To understand the seafood culture in Norway today is to look at it from all angles. During our visit, we took to the open sea to do a little fishing and see what we could catch, but we also had the opportunity to visit fish farms and learn of aquaculture practices in Norway. While this is often a dividing subject, I was appreciative to be able to see firsthand the steps taken throughout the entire process and to be encouraged to ask the hard questions.

The fisheries and organizations in Norway have ensured everything they do is transparent and accessible to the public – BarentsWatch is a great resource for this. They also work closely with researchers, veterinarians, and scientists – many of whom we met and discussed with – to innovate practices, meet strict requirements, ensure a high quality of life for the fish, and look toward a sustainable future with the ever-growing issues of population growth and changes in the climate. It would appear that if anyone is leading the maintenance and protection of the waters in such an open way, it’s Norway.

Seafood is such an important part of a healthy diet. Norway’s emphasis on interacting with nature in a sustainable and nurturing way has resulted in the incredible preservation of fish and seafood in their natural environment. This, in turn, provides products that are arguably the best in the world. When you hear stories from local producers, chefs, fisherman and divers, you begin to fully comprehend how deeply connected Norwegian culture is to its natural bounty. And when you taste those ingredients, you appreciate that connection even more.

What begins as life in the waters becomes sustenance for those on land. The chefs and cooks we visited were exemplary in highlighting the freshness and flavor of each ingredient. What makes Norwegian seafood special is the high quality, the cold waters, and the sustainable approach. This focus is nothing short of inspiring. Imagine the buttery rich salmon, the sweet and tender king crab, the hearty cod, the salty roe, the oily mackerel, the flaky haddock, the juicy halibut, the sweet and salty prawns, and the ancient clams. All enriched with local flavors to draw you into the landscape with a greater appreciation for where the food comes from. Each dish is nothing more than a celebration of nature and an acknowledgement that each ingredient is a gift. 

Not only does the seafood taste incredible, it’s also nutritious and beneficial to our health. Norwegian seafood is full of vitamins, minerals, high-quality protein and omega-3 fatty acids. The benefits of eating seafood include heart health, brain development, healthy vision, and cognitive health and longevity. I must have consumed more fish during this trip then I have all year and there’s no turning back now as I’ve made a personal resolution to eat more fish. The Norwegian recommendation is to eat fish two to three times a week, about 300 – 450 grams (about 10 ½ to 16 ounces), of which 200 grams (7 ounces) should be fatty fish such as salmon, trout, mackerel or herring.  

Besides needing to incorporate more seafood into my diet, what I learned most of all is that the waters in Norway should never be taken for granted. Whatever approach is used in getting the seafood, there’s assurance in knowing that the transparency is high and the regulations are strict, with everything accounted for. This delicate ecosystem is in our hands. If we fail the sea, we lose out on one of natures’ most diverse and fascinating ecosystems. We also lose out on one of the most delicious food sources available. Perfection is not always attainable, but to have the protection and sustainability of our landscape at the forefront of our minds ensures a better future ahead.

The post Seafood from Norway appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

Peering out into the horizon and under the pale grey sky, amongst groups of small jutting islands, I could spot the red lighthouse in the distance. Firmly situated above a cluster of tightly-packed, colorful wooden houses, this particular lighthouse garners the attention it deserves, but not in a towering and obtrusive way. In a way that subtly states its important role as the guiding light of this once bustling traditional fishing village. You can’t miss it. It’s the iconic symbol of Ona’s story, written by those who have carved their names in the land and the sea that surrounds and sustains it.

Reaching the island of Ona has been long in the making for me. I knew I would reach its shores one day, to come to understand the roots that run deep in my Norwegian family. You see, my father-in-law was born on this island. His father, grandparents, great-grandparents, and so on lived here and helped build Ona up. He left the island as a child, but the island never him. He shared his birthplace with his children, which left an imprint of fond memories that would always linger and continue to beckon to them as they grew older. I suppose that’s part of Ona’s charm. Once you have set foot on its rocks, it clings to you and whispers to you whenever the westerly wind blows.

At least that’s the affect it has had on my husband. For years he wanted to take me to Ona – to the place where he spent several childhood summers racing between the quaint houses, collecting seashells, fishing, and playing into the night as the summer sun kept its brilliance. This place of charm and memories, with its stormy and sunny composition keeping you guessing. Rain or shine, cold or warm, this is a place suited for those who long for the sea and are braced for its sometimes-unforgiving disposition.

As we approached Ona, the ferry pulled closer to the dock and what once was a multitude of colors splashed amid the rocks turned into a detailed landscape of buildings, houses, and picturesque gardens. Local inhabitants waited nearby with curiosity to see who or what would be coming off the ferry.

Ona, although small, is like a fine wine. It’s meant to be savored. A slow-paced stroll along the paths allows you to catch all the nooks and crannies. The carvings in the wood panels, the flowers, the fading paint, the structural remains of a school that once was, the old and new, and the rise and fall of the tide.

A short bridge connects Ona to its collective, though larger, island of Husøy. There, the path leads you to a small chapel resting in front of the cemetery and a small, sandy beach. With only a handful of permanent residences, and most of the homes now used as summer homes, it’s enticing to look back and picture what it would have been like in its heyday. Once a hustling and bustling small fishing village with boats bringing in fish, crab, lobster, and the like and lining the docks with their catch.

Fishing is more of a hobby now, and a way for those on the island to catch fresh meals. So, I was eager to get off of land and out into the water to experience this part of life on Ona. The part that has always been the driving force behind its existence and sustenance. Like true fishermen, we cast our nets of desire to the locals and caught ourselves an invite to join some crab fishing.

Oddgeir, a family relative residing on Ona, picked us up along the docks in the early evening. The sky a mixture of grey and blue with the sun barely peeking out after a brief mist of rain. We boarded his boat, life vests secured, and took to the waters not far from the reach of the island. The lighthouse within sight to draw us back in again.

The crab traps, which had been thrown out earlier in tried and true locations, were easily spotted. Oddgeir pulled the boat close to the first one. My father-in-law took control of the rope. With each pull, the anticipation and excitement of how many crabs would be inside overtook any other thought. As the crab trap was hoisted on board, shapes of reddish brown came into view. The whole process took less than a whirling minute. The trap door was opened, crabs were taken out one at a time with such speed and experience. The young ones and those not deemed fit enough to eat were tossed back into the sea, the others tossed into a bucket. The traps were set back in the water and we drove toward the next one.

We gathered four more traps and filled the black tub with enough beady-eyed crabs for a feast. As we circled around a small rock island, the boat slowed so we could gaze at a group of skarver (cormorants). Their movements and beauty mystifying as the gentle breeze brushed against our cheeks and the smell of salt water lingered. As we headed back toward Ona, the water sparkled as the end of the day’s rays shone down. The seagulls continued their flight and everything looked so pristine and calm.

We docked and climbed a thick wooden ladder to Oddgeir’s boat house. The crabs were lifted ashore. Almost immediately, the gas burner stove was lit and a large pot with water and sea salt was brought to boiling. One by one, the crabs were tossed in the water and simmered until just perfect. After a 5-minute rest, the water was drained and the crabs were lined up on the rocks to cool. 

We dug into the claws first. Fresh, sweet, and buttery. There’s nothing quite like eating something this local and so fresh that it doesn’t need anything else served with it.

As the feasting continued, the reality of the moment sank in. Here I was, sitting on a rock on an island I had been wishing to visit for 15 years, eating freshly boiled crab from the waters surrounding it, and looking up at the lighthouse that has guided so many before me.

I only spent two days in Ona, but I can now understand how this place can get into your very being. How the sea has a way of holding on to you, drawing you back. As I sit at home now, I can still taste the sea salt in the air and feel the cool waters brush against my fingertips as I reached in to collect seashells. I can feel the warmth of the sun on my forehead and the crisp breeze of the wind against my cheek. I can hear the seagulls as they danced above. I can taste the herbal tea I drank in the garden below the lighthouse. I can feel the cracked paint of the wooden doorframe on my hands as I leaned in for a closer look. I can see all the friendly smiles and the curious looks.

And that crab. I can still taste the sweet and buttery flesh as I gazed out into the vast sea.

Oh, and the sea, whose embrace is more than a welcome antidote for the soul. Its wild nature freeing and magical, unpredictable, and yet giving.

What I learned from my time there is that Ona is a reflection of the sea. All you have to do is explore its rocky shores and meander through its winding paths to discover the enchantment it beholds. So, if you happen to find yourself nearby, be sure to catch the ferry and let the sea take you to this little gem settled above the horizon.

The post The Island of Ona & Crab Fishing appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

A smoldering heat enveloped me as I gazed out from the brygge (docks) toward the sea; one hand shading my eyes from the sun’s bright rays. The blue waters appeared never ending – with small,  rocky, and only somewhat-barren islands jetting out as the seagulls danced around the them. The breeze gave only the slightest sense of relief from this year’s endless heat wave, but the beauty and tranquility of the landscape alone was enough to take my mind off of it.

I’ve visited parts of Norway’s western coastline before, but this year I ventured south toward Kristiansand to Søgne. The southern coastline, which includes the Skaggerak strait, bears the name sørlandet (the south, or directly translated “the south land”)  – I suppose, in part, summarizing the collective area in a way that describes each village, each brygge, each island. Collective lifestyles, like quick morning swims in the sea despite what the temperature gauge might read and knowing the waters so well that navigation relies on the local knowledge and not signs. It’s Norway’s riveria – a coastline dotted with colorful wooden houses that have been a summer destination for Norwegians and tourists alike.

I wasn’t exploring the entire coastline this summer, only staying on one little jutting edge of if it. A summer house nestled in the rocks with a view of of endless waters and blue skies: a summer haven.

The waters are teeming full of life throughout the year and July is nothing short of a good time to take the boat out a little way from the bay and cast a line in the summer weather. The waters can be so giving that fishermen can have their meals taken care of daily – with a good range of fish and seafood – and that’s exactly what we experienced as feasted on cod, salmon, and mackerel.

One of the most prominent fish you’ll find along the southern coast in the summer is mackerel. Mackerel is almost guaranteed. So much so that after a catch of 20 or 30, the next fishing trips might as well return with anything but. Mackerel range is size and make for perfect filets that can be hot-smoked for a quick lunch on the rocks, while the bigger fish (say, cod) can be saved for the evening.

Another leisure activity filling each day was crab fishing from the dock. Simple, yet nostalgic and exciting. An activity resting on patience and stillness – keeping kids and adults alike entertained for hours.

A string with a simple bait tied to one end is tossed into the shallow waters and the other end of the string is tied to the dock. The waiting begins until the crab (usually a small crab) tightens its grip on its perceived meal. The anticipation and excitement swell as soon as the string is pulled gently from the water in the hopes the crab retains its grip and doesn’t let go. Sometimes the crab outwits everyone and will let go having a mouthful of delicious bait. More commonly, laughter and elated shouts resound with success and the crab is placed in a large bucket full of cold seawater and seaweed to provide them sanctuary throughout the day until they are released.

The end of the day finishes with a crab race of the day’s catch. Placed on the dock and cheered to victory, the crabs dive back into the embrace of the sea and find shelter once more on the sea bed.

There’s something incredibly romantic when you spend time near the sea in the summer. The smell of sea, the sounds of the waves and the birds, the feeling of cool water embracing the skin and of wood planks and rocks underneath bare feet. Days not only are longer but feel longer too, particularly this summer when the temperatures were high and the heat of the sun beat down.

When the sun would begin to set, creating a horizon of pink, yellow and orange, the table became a ceremony of sharing the local catch and the day’s moments. One of my favorite fish dishes that we shared was poached salmon steaks cooked in sea water and served with a simple cucumber salad and boiled potatoes.

To make the salmon, our host took a large pot and bent beside the dock as he filled it with seawater. After the water was simmering and the temperature brought down, the large steaks were added and left to cook for only a couple of minutes. The drinks were poured, the candles lit and the steaks served. The pink flesh easily flaked off as my fork pierced it and the taste was exceptional. It was perfectly seasoned from the seawater and the taste was so fresh – something that comes when using quality ingredients sourced locally.

This sørlandet trip was short and incredibly sweet. Our hosts were beyond generous in sharing their time, home, and experiences. The trip capped off with a romantic storm in the evening (one that was well-needed) and even more fish, drinks, and good conversations. Sørlandet is truly a Norwegian gem with nature that welcomes you in.

You can easily bring the sea to your home with this delightful and simple recipe for the seawater-poached salmon steaks. Seawater has a salinity level of 3.5% per thousand, so if you can’t access seawater feel free to use tap water and add in the correct amounts of regular salt.

Seawater-Poached Salmon Steaks

Serves 4-6

• 1 large salmon (or 8 salmon steaks)
• 4 quarts (4 litres)  seawater (or water with 35 grams of salt added per quart/litre)

To serve:

• Cucumber salad
• Small, boiled potatoes
• Melted butter with fresh parsley
• Sour cream (optional)

Prepare the salmon by gutting and cleaning it, removing the head and tail. Cut into 1-inch (2 ½ cm ) steaks.

Fill a large pot with the seawater or salted water and bring to a simmer over medium-high heat. Lower the heat. Gently add the salmon steaks and let cook for 8 to 10 minutes, or until the flesh easily flakes apart.

Remove from the heat. With a slotted spoon, remove the steaks and serve immediately. The bones and skin will need to be removed by each person.

Serve with a freshly made cucumber salad, boiled potatoes, melted butter with fresh parsley tossed in and sour cream, if desired.

The post The Southern Coast {Sørlandet} + Seawater-Poached Salmon Steaks appeared first on North Wild Kitchen.

There is a great wonder when you travel throughout Norway, never quite knowing what grandeur will appear around each and every corner. The landscape can change dramatically and each part has a beauty all of its own.

I journeyed throughout parts of western Norway from Lærdal to Molde and back inland through Romsdal and Jotunheimen until I made it home again to Numedal, the Medieval Valley. I went looking for inspiration from the surrounding waters. For recipes. Dishes from the sea, the fjords, the locals. A short time to delve into a few of Norway’s coastal gems. Each place having a marvel of its own and a history and a story to tell.

The first stop of the journey was in the heart of Sognefjord in Lærdal. A village with its charming, wooden houses and it’s famous river, Lærdalselvi. The river even earned the nickname “The Queen Among Salmon Rivers” as it was traditionally one of the most exclusive salmon and sea trout rivers in Norway. Known even as King Harald V’s second Queen.

The crystal clear river became a favorite spot for angling after the arrival of the English ‘salmon lords’ in 1850. You can see the influence and prestige Lærdal had by  walking through the old city center and passing through the famous Lindstrøm Hotell.

Although the salmon population was drastically depleted after an infestation with the salmon parasite in the fall of 1996, it seems to be looking up these days as the anglers are returning.

Following Lærdal, we made our way to Loen, located in the inner part of the Nordfjord region. The rain was falling and the landscape was a lush and vibrant green against the tranquil fjord. A cable car now runs to the top, providing incredible views of the landscape below. And a short distance into the valley, Lodalen unveils one of the most breathtaking and inspiring sceneries.

Towering mountains and green waters. Glacier peaks resting high among the clouds. And following a day of rain, a promise in the form of a double rainbow – the ends, of which, were gracing the top of the serene water.

The vibrant green waters derive from clay particles and rock dust, which come from the glaciers cutting through the mountains. The waters carry the clay and dust into the lakes and the fjords below, creating an almost magical scenery you have to see in person in order to truly capture the splendor. As the rains stopped and the clouds departed, we made our way to Ålesund, a town built on a row of islands jutting out into the ocean. The calm waters reflecting so clearly its Art Nouveau architecture as it boasts a very continental European vibe with it’s beautiful orientation, it’s cafes, it’s stunning views and it’s myriad of boats and nods to the nautical lifestyle.

A walk of 418 steps upwards brings you to an overarching view of the town and the surrounding islands. It’s a picturesque place that makes a visible stance against the vast ocean backdrop.

A short drive to the neighboring island of Godøy leads to Alnes. Alnes is a small village that was once one of the most important fishing villages in the entire region. Today, the lighthouse stands out above the wooden houses as it overlooks the ocean and the square-topped mountains.

The lighthouse has many stories to tell and they are best enjoyed while tasting the delectable treats, such as the famous whipped lingonberry cheesecake from the adjacent cafe. While it doesn’t take long to explore this quaint village, the peacefulness stays with you long after.

Further north and a ferry ride leads to the Town of Roses.

Molde is a vibrant city with an affinity for jazz and roses, among other things. A hike up the mountain brings you to the viewpoint of Varden, where you can experience the panoramic view of 222 mountain peaks. Surrounding Molde are the famous sites of Trollstigen, the Atlantic Road and Romsdalseggen, making Molde a great stopping point to enjoy the sites and the buzz of the city.

We took a little trip to the fishing village of Bud to feast on fiskeboller (fish balls), blandaboller (fish and potato balls), raspeballer (potato balls), boiled meats and sausages and an array of cakes. Afterwards, we took a walk to enjoy the view of the lighthouse and the open ocean before returning to Molde and eventually making our way inland back home.

Of course, the journey would not have been complete without making a couple of traditional coastal dishes along the way. A few trips to the local fish mongers ensured I had my hands full of fresh fish and seafood.

The days of recipe testing were filled with dried & salted cod stew (bacalao), fish soup (fiskesuppe), crayfish appetizers (kreps) and fish cakes (fiskekaker). All of which will be featured in the upcoming cookbook next year.

But not to withhold so much from you, I am sharing this recipe for classic fish cakes from my Norwegian in-laws. They made these while we were in Molde with fresh pollock from the local monger. They are reminiscent of the fish cakes you will find in stores and boutiques across Norway, with a hint of nutmeg in each bite. Fluffy, with a perfectly browned crust and just the right size to snack on or make a meal out of.

Simple Fish Cakes (Fiskekake)

(Makes around 15 fish cakes)

• 10.6 oz (300g) fresh pollock, haddock or cod (must be fresh, otherwise you will not achieve the desired texture)
• 1 1/4 cup (3 dl) whole milk
• 3/4 tsp salt
• ½ tsp nutmeg
• ½ tsp white pepper
• 2 Tb potato starch
• Butter, for frying

Cut the fish into pieces (ensure there are no bones and no skin). Place the fish in a food processor or blender and start processing. While the machine is going, slowly add the milk followed by the spices and lastly by the potato flour. Process two to three minutes longer. The consistency should be like a semi-thick paste. It should be very smooth.

Heat a large frying pan with a good amount of butter over medium-high heat.

Take a large spoon (dipped in a glass of warm water) and scoop out large spoonfuls of the fish mixture. Shape into rounds the size of a tennis ball with the palm of your hand and place in the pan. Lower the heat to medium and fry a couple at a time, turning them over when they become golden brown. Each side will cook for a couple of minutes. You can check whether they are finished by pressing down on the center of each cake and seeing if they have firmed up quite a bit.

Serve warm. These are delicious on their own as a snack or as a meal with boiled potatoes and drizzled with a little melted butter.

Try these other fish dishes: 

Fish Casserole

Pan Seared Fish, Radish and Potato Salad

Gravlax

Trout Mousse

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